Yes, we did visit Bethlehem!

We arrived back in to the UK last night - following an uneventful flight - but a fantastic visit to Ceasarea Maritima- more of which another day!

Some of you will have realised that I have made no mention of Bethlehem... we did visit it - I promise!

We headed out from Jerusalem, passing through the ugly, repressive and politically sensitive Separation Wall between Israel (Jerusalem) and the Palestinian Territories (see an interesting article here: Article by Kathleen Christison). It is enormous, and the Check Point we passed through is the biggest, and the one that causes the most hassle for Palestinians seeking to get to work each day. It is the most direct route through to Jerusalem and it can add, on some days, up to an extra two hours on to the journey to work. There are always taxis/minibuses there to take people on up into Jerusalem, but it would probably make the daily commute into London seem like a bit of a breeeze! (On this occasion of passing across a Check Point no-one actually got onto our bus, the boarding and walk through of young Israeli citizens serving National Service (carrying machine guns) was saved for other occasions.)

The Wall has become a site for various pieces of Political art  and statement (even Banksy has had a go), and it is interesting to see where an important piece of Jewish History has caused the bizarre extension of the Wall around a site of religious importance - for example the site of Sarah's tomb (as in Sarah and Abraham).

Before going to the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem in the afternoon though, we visited the Shepherd's Fields in Bethlehem as well as had lunch at the Bethlehem Arab Society for Rehabilition (BASR).

At the Shepherd's Fields they have been doing some work on the site - with a new fountain having been installed in the centre of the site. It remains a lovely place, and as we were early, there was only one other group there when we arrived. They were in the 'cave' for Holy Communion, where were to follow. The time we were waiting was spent listening to our Guide, Saeed, give some explanation into the current situation for Arabs in Israel - and especially Arab Christians. The percentage of Christians in the Holy Land has dropped dramatically over recent years from something around 15% of the population to only 2%. We were stunned at this, and rightly so. In a conversation later we were pondering whether it was something to do with inertia on the part of Christians - not blowing our own trumpet. It may well be due to this but I think it may also have something to do with the fact that as Christians we are not united. We absolutely do not have to all think the same, but we do have to support one another. In the Holy Land, the two most important sites - the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Church of the Nativity - are places of dispute and lack of trust for the main, meaning that it is easy for others to pay little regard to the voice of Christians (see this from the Church of the Nativity last December: Bethlehem, December 2011).

Celebrating Holy Communion in Bethlehem is lovely. Here, where Jesus was born - where God became Incarnate - how wonderful to be in this land and think of the angels appearing to the Shepherd's - and scaring them to bits! It is such a dramatic story and we kind of forget that in the whimsy of Christmas to which so many people subscribe. This is a wonderfully powerful story - the renting of the heavens and God coming down... just as Isaiah pleaded.

We shopped in the Bethlehem Co-operative. Not a good experience I am afraid. It was all a bit 'hard sell' which made most of us feel very uncomfortable, and pput some people of buying at all.

Visiting BASR, and enjoying Lunch there was a great visit. Mary, who I have met before, gave us a tour of the Centre - including a trip up onto the roof (I am afriad I had to go back inside as it was too un-nerving!) and a visit to both the Physiotherapy Department (which doubles up as a Basketball space for local young people) and the Children's Ward. It has been an important feature of work in recent years that Staff at BASR have insisted that parents come to visit their children at least once a week. For some this is very difficult, requiring many lengthy bus transfers across difficult parts of the country. This may sound unusual... but it isn't so very different from what used to happen in the UK - so I am afraid no judgement should be made here. There are many people who come from all over the world to act as Volunteers here, and they are doing such good wirl It is well worht a visit, and not just for the falafels!

Need to post this - but will spend some time soon writing about the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.