Yes, we did visit Bethlehem!

We arrived back in to the UK last night - following an uneventful flight - but a fantastic visit to Ceasarea Maritima- more of which another day!

Some of you will have realised that I have made no mention of Bethlehem... we did visit it - I promise!

We headed out from Jerusalem, passing through the ugly, repressive and politically sensitive Separation Wall between Israel (Jerusalem) and the Palestinian Territories (see an interesting article here: Article by Kathleen Christison). It is enormous, and the Check Point we passed through is the biggest, and the one that causes the most hassle for Palestinians seeking to get to work each day. It is the most direct route through to Jerusalem and it can add, on some days, up to an extra two hours on to the journey to work. There are always taxis/minibuses there to take people on up into Jerusalem, but it would probably make the daily commute into London seem like a bit of a breeeze! (On this occasion of passing across a Check Point no-one actually got onto our bus, the boarding and walk through of young Israeli citizens serving National Service (carrying machine guns) was saved for other occasions.)

The Wall has become a site for various pieces of Political art  and statement (even Banksy has had a go), and it is interesting to see where an important piece of Jewish History has caused the bizarre extension of the Wall around a site of religious importance - for example the site of Sarah's tomb (as in Sarah and Abraham).

Before going to the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem in the afternoon though, we visited the Shepherd's Fields in Bethlehem as well as had lunch at the Bethlehem Arab Society for Rehabilition (BASR).

At the Shepherd's Fields they have been doing some work on the site - with a new fountain having been installed in the centre of the site. It remains a lovely place, and as we were early, there was only one other group there when we arrived. They were in the 'cave' for Holy Communion, where were to follow. The time we were waiting was spent listening to our Guide, Saeed, give some explanation into the current situation for Arabs in Israel - and especially Arab Christians. The percentage of Christians in the Holy Land has dropped dramatically over recent years from something around 15% of the population to only 2%. We were stunned at this, and rightly so. In a conversation later we were pondering whether it was something to do with inertia on the part of Christians - not blowing our own trumpet. It may well be due to this but I think it may also have something to do with the fact that as Christians we are not united. We absolutely do not have to all think the same, but we do have to support one another. In the Holy Land, the two most important sites - the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Church of the Nativity - are places of dispute and lack of trust for the main, meaning that it is easy for others to pay little regard to the voice of Christians (see this from the Church of the Nativity last December: Bethlehem, December 2011).

Celebrating Holy Communion in Bethlehem is lovely. Here, where Jesus was born - where God became Incarnate - how wonderful to be in this land and think of the angels appearing to the Shepherd's - and scaring them to bits! It is such a dramatic story and we kind of forget that in the whimsy of Christmas to which so many people subscribe. This is a wonderfully powerful story - the renting of the heavens and God coming down... just as Isaiah pleaded.

We shopped in the Bethlehem Co-operative. Not a good experience I am afraid. It was all a bit 'hard sell' which made most of us feel very uncomfortable, and pput some people of buying at all.

Visiting BASR, and enjoying Lunch there was a great visit. Mary, who I have met before, gave us a tour of the Centre - including a trip up onto the roof (I am afriad I had to go back inside as it was too un-nerving!) and a visit to both the Physiotherapy Department (which doubles up as a Basketball space for local young people) and the Children's Ward. It has been an important feature of work in recent years that Staff at BASR have insisted that parents come to visit their children at least once a week. For some this is very difficult, requiring many lengthy bus transfers across difficult parts of the country. This may sound unusual... but it isn't so very different from what used to happen in the UK - so I am afraid no judgement should be made here. There are many people who come from all over the world to act as Volunteers here, and they are doing such good wirl It is well worht a visit, and not just for the falafels!

Need to post this - but will spend some time soon writing about the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.

Breezy on the Sea of Galilee

What a lovely day we have had today... travelling along the shores of the Sea of Galilee, visiting sites associated with Jesus' mnistry and teaching. We celebrated Communion right beside the seashore - near the church where they remember Jesus feeding the five thousand - rather quaintly called the Church of the Multiplication

Beginning the day by exploring the site of the City of Capernaum - we have spent the day close to Jesus. On this site one can see what are held to be, with good reason, the remains of the Synagogue in which Jesus worshipped, prayed and taught. It is a popular place for Pilgrims and we were soon joined by many others. The verse that has been a theme of the week is Matthew 28: 19: Therefore, go and make disciples of all the nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father and the Son and the Holy Spirit. e

 Capernaum is a really interesting place. As well as the Synagogue there are ruins of the town - really comprehensive ones, one of which is Peter's House - where Jesus healed Peter's Mother-in-Law. This house was enlarged over the years as the early believers in Jesus grew in number. A rather hideous Church has been built over the top of the house, to save it from being destroyed by the vast numbers of Pilgrims who visit. I am not sure that this justifies a Church that looks like a spaceship, but who am I to comment? After all, I am only a visitor to this land! e

Following our time at Capernaum, we went on to Tabgha, where we celebrated Holy Communion - overlooking the Sea. This is such a lovely site, peaceful and gentle, with the sound of the wind gently blowing the leaves on the trees and the water to lap the shore. Here we thought of the places we have visited over the last week that mark the birth and death of Jesus, as well many important places associated with his ministry. We sang the lovely song, I the Lord of Sea and Sky. How moving it was to be singing this, thinking of those at home in the UK who are thinking of us, praying for us, and keeping tabs on us through this blog. It feels as though we have been away for far longer than a week and a few days - somehow the time has drifted and we have lost ourselves in this land. God has been good and we have been richly blessed.e

 So after Tabgha, on to Mensa Christi, the place where Jesus gave Peter the chance to say three times that he oved him, perhaps to make up for the three times that he had denied him. So many people think this to be the reason that Jesus asked the question three times, and I guess hope it to be so - for in doing this, in giving Peter this chance, Jesus allowed Peter a future and a hope. This place is a place filled with the Spirit - and with the prayers of the countless thousands of Pilgrims through the centuries. As we stood and looked out into the distant horizon over the water - with some of us paddling too! - our prayers rose with those of the people who had come before - and with those who will come after. e

And so to lunch - where the mad folk who are not vegetarian (everyone except me!) were treated to the delight of eating a St Peter's Fish. My but they are such ugly looking critters - and you can even see their teeth. I had some sort of sweetcorn veggie burger - so much more pleasant! One of the loveliest treats of the visit has been the fresh dates after each meal. They are much nicer than the dried ones we suffer at home.e

We had time to spend in the Church of the Beatitudes. Another lovely Church designed by the gifted Berlucchi.   Standing gently at the top of the hill, one has time to meander through the grounds (and the shop!) pondering the meaning of the the words of Jesus. I guess we all hope that if ever we are in the situations of which Jesus speaks in the Beatitudes, we will also be in receipt of the solace that is offered. e

Then off to sail in a Jesus boat. A replica of one found many years ago in the Sea and believed to be like the ships that the disciples would have sailed and fished from. It was jolly breezy - which aided our imagination as we heard the accout of the Storm that Jesus calmed, as well as him walking on the water, and Peter doing likewise - only to fall prey to fear... e

We are so lucky to be here - such riches and joys to be found and experienced. Thanks be to God. Amen. e

Going back a day or two

It has take a day or two, and it will take more I know, to digest the sights and thoughts of Sunday - when our day took in the early morning ceremonies of the different denominations which have chapels in the Church of the HolySepulchre, worshipping with the congregation at St George's Cathedral and then time at Yad Vashem

At the Church of the Holy Sepulchre - where we had been jostled and hassled the previous day, we were able to spend time simply 'drifting' around the Church, praying our way as we went. There were very few people around so it was a very different experince from the afternoon before. (I should say that it was 6.45am and so most sensible Pilgrims were probably still in bed!) Each denominations arrival is 'announced' by the Clergy being walked in by two men beating the ground with a mace as they go. I am not sure why there is this accompanying noisiness - but it does make people both look and get out of the way

Following this early morning visit, we returned to the hotel (there were five of us) feeling immensely virtuous! I then set off after breakfast with another group to walk the via Dolorosa again as they wished to take photographs. We were left alone as we walked, which was lovely - and made a change from the usual experience of the souk! This group also headed to the Holy Sepulchre, where it was still very quiet, and praying in the Tomb which is built above the site where it is believed Jesus was laid following his death was possible without interruption or hassle. Visiting the Holy Sepulchre leads to both deep prayer and deep distress

Over the years, various denominations have ttried to claim various areas of the site, and thus the church it pretty untidy and disjointed. Nothing is labelled and anyone making their ay into the place with no=one to tell them what each part is woudl very easily lose any sense of clarity and understanding about hte space. This is a pity, and what is meant to be one of the holiest sites in Christendom can leave the visitor and Pilgrim nonplussed as it is so hard to make sense of it all

After these visits, we all met to walk up from Damascus Gate to St George's Cathedral, where were joined the congregation for the 11.30am Service of Holy Communion. It was lovely to be there again - it really is like have a Parish Church from England plonked down in the middle of the city! The Sermon was very fine, and the welcome very warm

The visit to Yad Vashem is very complex to begin to explain. It is a powerful reminder of the humanity that we can wreak upon one another, and there are reminders of the lives of the people whose lives were taken during this terrible event. In one statistic, 33,000+  people were killed in 48 hours. It os hard to comprehend how this might be possible - but this terrile 'killing machine' worked with deadly effectiveness to annihilate thousands upon thousands of people. It is a place of deep pryaer, deep horror and deep, immensely deep siginificane to a world in which the humanity of one people to another is explainedaway or ignored. To those who had any sort of hand in its building - thanks are rightly due. What is also due is a challenge to pay heed to what was done, not only to the Jews, but also those with learning idifficulties, homosexuals and those who just didn't look right. It is painful place to be, but also encourages one to think about the current political situation, and wonder if anything will change

Today we have moved from Jerusalem to the Galilee where we are staying at the Ron Beach Hotel. All the rooms overlook the Sea of Galilee and t is a lovely place to be. I am hoping to catch a sunrise one day


Our travels today begain with a visit to the Church Mary, Marth and Lazarus Church of Mary, Martha and Lazarus in Bethany. It is another one designed by Berlucchi and is stimply stunning. His gift for using architecture to mirror the Bible narratives was amazing


Following the time at the church in its beautiful, simple gardens (and a couple of rides on a camel!) we set off for the Jeel al Amal School - also in Bethany. The School was set up by a couple in 1972, since which time it has offered education for many hundreds of boys, as well as accommodation for boys who are orphans, abused or abandoned - all in the very difficult place to live of Bethany. Far from the peaceful place 'over the hill' from Jerusalem, which Jesus would have known, it is now a place that is rundown, with little to offer hope for a community of people who find themselves on the wrong side of the Wall which has been built by the Israelis. What a troubled place this Holy Land is


We moved on Jericho to visit the Mount of Temptation. One reaches the site where it is believed Jesus spent time in the desert by travelling up on a Cable Car (complete with a (long) pause high up in the air - very high up in the air!) and then walking up a further 150+ uneven steps to reach the entry to the Monastery of the Temptation. We were treated very graciously by the man who now acts as a Gate Keeper. As there is a constant stream of visitors knocking on teh Monastrey door, I am not surprised they emply someon for this task.  We seemed to garner some favour with the chap as we were allowed time in the uppermost Chapel to pray, as well as a Side Chapel lower down in which to sing. We tried not to outstay our welcome as this was obviously not a privilege afforded to all - I have never been made so welcome before. There are many beautiful murals here, as well as a breathtaing view across Jericho and beyond, from the (very narrow) veranda


Then on to the Baptismal site at  Qasr al-Yahud, recently re-opened following many years of closure. It is a lovely serene place, much more calm than the other place I visited five years ago. Here we renewed our Baptismal Vows and sang the wonderful hymn I will sing the wondrous story - all overlooked by around seven or eight Israeli soldiers who are there to take note as the site is within 20 feet of the Jordanian shore


More wondrous places to visit tomorrow - with some time, hopefully, to upload some photographs

Sultan's Night

With the wild and wonderful music of Sultan's Night at our hotel - Golden Walls -  in the background, the end of another day of wonderful sights, sounds and theological ponderings comes to a close

Beginning our day on the other side of the city from our Hotel, we visited the Upper Room which is believed to be in the vicinity of the site where Jesus gathered with the Disciples for the Last Supper. Like many of the sites in the Holy Land, it has had an interesting history, passing from hand to hand for 'owenership' as different occupying forces, both miltary and religious have come to the fore. Nowdays it is not used for any form of worship beyind that offered by those who visit and recall the account of Jesus being there with his disciples, as well as possibly sing the lovely hymn: An Upper Room did our Lord prepare

More tomorrow as I have to be up in the morning to take a few of the Group to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre when it is quiet, rather than today's shenanigans when it was utter chaos. I have never experienced it like today. It was so unseemly as people pushed and shoved to make their way towards the place of Golgotha... and we didn't even attempt to make it to the Tomb as there were security guards holding people back. One obviously needed to be one of the great and the good, like the Roman Catholics and Franciscans who were offering worship and were afforded a clearing of the way and escort as they made their way around the church... whilst we all waited (and gawped a bit) as they went by

As I say, more tomorrow - after an early start, worship at St George's Cathedral and then a visit to Yad Vashem

Draw near to God and he will draw near to you. James 4:8

Today we have been in the desert - a beautiful experience but one that also brings you close to the experience of our forebears in faith

Whilst Jerusalem is a city that has been built up over many yeras to know be a sprawling mini-metropolis with a maelstrom of styles of building, culture and religion/worship, the desert is immensely still and almost benevolent in its apparently calm presence and beauty

One should not be fooled though. There is limited water, limited vegetation and limited scope for the development of societal expansion beyond any area that is fortunate enough to be anywhere near any source of water. As we have travelled today we have seen the precariousness of the existence of those who either choose or are forced to inhabit this place

Our day has been one of exploring the lives of those who have chosen to live in the desert - part of the Kidron Valley, very close the Dead Sea

Beginning with an exploration of Qumran - the site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found, we were able to see first hand the remains of the buildings the members of this Commuity had used. At one point, up to a hundred men lived here - following a Rule of Life that  prescribed a life of study, manual labour and silence, - all to faciliatate a deeper engagement and understanding of the God who called them and loved them. These early monastics were seeking after God - something that so many of us are seeking to do in our modern age. There are those called to this life, with its challenges and demands - and they are to be valued and cherished, alongside those who seek to live out their vocation in 'the world', with the challenges and demands that this way if life brings with it

Shalom. Greetings from Israel. It's marvellously sunny over here - so much so that some of us are sunburnt!

We had a very easy journey though yesterday, arriving Jerusalem late yesterday evening for some reason the computer has gone into Hebrew mode and I can't 'do' all punctuation - sorry. Also all the instructions are in Hebrew - so anything could happen

Today has been a full day with much walking a seeing and praying. We have explored Jerusalem and been out to Ein Karem

Our morning began with an early start (8am) and a walk down from the Mount of Olives We started up at Pater Noster Church - where they believe Jesus taught his disciples the Lord's Prayer. How lovely to be on this site together. It is a fairly quiet place so early in the day, but our early morning singing did have to compete with another group. I couldn't quite work out what they were singing - but we carried on regardless (!) with Lord Jesus Christ. Such a fine hymn to begin the journey through this Holy Land

The we paid a brief visit to the Church of the Ascension, which stands very much cheek-by-jowl with the Mosque of the Ascension. We had moeny changing going on with the grounds, fluffy toy camels that brayed (or did whatever camels do) as well as an opportunity to see the place which is reputed to be the final footprint of Jesus before he ascended into heaven

Following these visits we began our walk down the Palm Sunday road - in all likelihood not the exact route Jesus took (and certainly not on tarmaced roads) but it would have been that hill that he walked down, when covered with olive trees and crowded around by the people singing Hosanne to him

Wesaving our way through the crowds - of which there were many, we popped into the Church - Doins Flevit (God wept) which is the place where Jesus paused and looked ver to Jerusalem and wept tears over its future. It is a simple church that, unusually, faces west. This is so that when the people are in a service of Holy Communion, they can look through the clear window and look towards Jersualem

The morning continued with a visit to the Church of All Nations - and then onto St Peter's in Gallicantu. Reputed to be the site of the High Priest's House -  the Church one enters first was built only a century ago - and is airy, light and beautifully decorated. On walking down into the lower levels of the Church, one reaches the chambers from the time of Christ - where he was possibly kept after his arrest. The Holy Pit (where e might hve beenkept) it cold and gloomy - and very dark if the lights are turned off. We didn't do that today - but I have experienced it in the past

Lunch at the Scottish Guesthouse was very much needed as we had been out walking for a good five hours by then. And after that we were straight off to Ein Karem where we visited the Church of John the Baptist with the Grotto that stands over the palve where he reputed to have been born, in addition to the Church of the Visitation high on the hill (very high on the hill!) that overlooks that valely. This is a lovely church, with a lovely feel about it. It is a place to feel simple and pure joy at being in this Holy Land, in the place where Jesus was born and in which he died

I was a source of much interest to a group of Brazilian Pilgrims who wanted to take my photograph! I tried to charge then 10 shekels a piece, but got nowhere

Tomorrow we go to Bethlehem - another full and rich day